In one of the shops in St Ouen markets / I could not resist the photo opportunity.
If you have seen the film ‘Midnight in Paris’ by Woody Allen, you might remember the main protagonist walking with a lover in the Saint-Ouen Flea markets, setting the area as something quintessentially Parisian, and not to be missed. It is often mentioned in tourist guides, and I started to wonder if I should take a special trip there to get a closer look.
There are actually several markets in Saint-Ouen. Some are clearly sign-posted, and each has a distinct vibe. According to a description found online, it is composed of 15 markets selling antiques, high-end items such as furniture, vintage clothing, and old cultural items like books, vinyl records, and postcards.
At the end of April 2025, I went on a mission to get to know the area a bit better.
My initial accommodation was set to be in Saint-Ouen itself, to be closer to the action, but after reading some reviews and news articles about the area, I realised there were drug-dealing issues and safety concerns. Therefore, I decided to change plans and stay in lively Montmartre, which was a 30-minute walk away.
To get to the Saint-Ouen flea markets from Montmartre, I had to cross a very busy and crowded food market, and the atmosphere started to shift.
Reaching Saint Ouen, the road became dirty and chaotic, littered with rubbish and crowded with people trying to sell random products. A young man tried to sell me some honey from the corner of this crowded pavement, and I was very puzzled as to why I would buy food from a random stranger in this rough setting.
As I turned round the corner, there were stands all along on both sides of the street with used items, totally unappealing, with dust and dirt. My first impression was far from positive.
Several policemen and policewomen were examining some of the items, probably to check if they had been stolen.
Having no sense of the place, I walked around and went into several shops and halls, trying to get a first general impression.
The first shop I entered looked more established, professional, and of a higher standard. It was selling designer vintage clothes and biker leather jackets. To my surprise, everything was quite expensive. Not sure why, but I expected some great bargains and found none on that day.
Stand with well displayed and labelled jewellery.
In the first shop I entered. A very colourful top.
In the second shop I entered…
In the second shop I entered. I was not sure if the items were new or not as they were well cleaned and in decent condition.
A few minutes later, I entered the Paul Bert Market, and it felt like a chic bohemian area. Some lovely alleys with open displays of exclusive objects. Products and displays now looked very special, unique, everything looked beautiful, polished and neat. The price tags rose to a new level. Most of the displays had no clear price tags, so I assume that prices can vary from one client to another, and I suspect that rich tourists can end up paying far more. To give you an idea of price, 6 Scandinavian cocktail glasses that caught my eye were £300 for the set.
Clearly signposted Paul Bert Market
Wandering on, I looked for one of the lanes in which the film Midnight in Paris was shot. The area felt very special with well-thought-out displays and handpicked items. Everything to entice you to have a ‘Coup de cœur’*, to impulse buy. A vintage clothes shop even had a bespoke shop scent to enhance the experience. It felt far from the usual secondhand charity shop you can find in London.
Later, I entered a covered area, and the antics and furniture became sublime despite the artificial light and low ceiling.
In the Paul Bert Market.
Ultra stylish furniture in Saint-Ouen. Where are the fleas?
In this area, you only had premium antiques that looked very grand, of premium quality or rare, if not unique and luxury items, including designer bags, vintage clothes, and trench coats. I overheard a conversation. A tourist inquired about the price of two beautiful chairs made of Brazilian wood. The saleswoman indicated that the price was 11,000 euros for the set of two.
There was an open patch that looked like a public garden nearby, with some beautiful graffiti and the entrance to the Jules Vallès Market. I had a little stroll inside. It was filled with light, and there were plenty of tables with various items. Nothing caught my attention apart from the light coming from the entrance and the possibility of taking a good photograph.
Graffiti in St Ouen
Le temps n’existe pas… / Time does not exist…
The Entrance of the Jules Vallès Market.
There are some vibrant restaurants and cafes in St Ouen along the various markets, and they were all full when I walked by, so I assume that you have to either be lucky, arrive early or book in advance if you want to eat or drink there.
I only managed to see three or four markets, so I am far from being an expert.
If you have the funds and you are looking for unusual, rare, or unique items, it is worth a visit. If you’re looking for a bargain, it might be better to look elsewhere or you will need to have top negotiating skills.
The markets are only open on Saturdays, Sundays and Mondays.
https://www.pucesdeparissaintouen.com
Annie :)
Written in Paris, London, and Munich at the end of April, in May and the very beginning of June 2025.
(Ps: I will go back in November with my husband and might update this blog post then)
Mini Glossary
‘Coup de cœur’ *
“In English, it can be translated as a sudden fondness or appreciation for something non-romantic, a ‘love at first sight’ or a preference.” (ai)
In this blog post, it is associated with the idea of impulse buying.
“Quand j’achète un vêtement, je cherche un coup de cœur.” When I buy an item of clothing, I want to (in some ways) fall in love with it.
‘Marché aux Puces’
It was originally a slang expression. Old second-hand clothes, often dirty and badly kept, sometimes had insects or ‘fleas’ in them. Fleas in French is ‘Puces’. Marché aux puces = Flea market.
“Le terme de «marché aux puces» est d'origine argotique. Il faisait alors référence à ces vêtements de fortune, souvent sales et peu entretenus, qui contenaient parfois des petites bestioles…”
‘La Fripe’
Clothes were ‘fripés’ (in English ‘creased’) hence the expression la fripe, which is an old second-hand item of clothing.